Turnabout on Turkey

Friday May 1th, 2009

Now, this is something that I don’t like doing. Namely, eating humble pie. It’s bad enough when you have to do it for an individual, but for an entire country? Ouch.

You see, I have never cared for the country of Turkey. No reason except that it didn’t appeal to me and I had never intended to see it. However, when I was invited by an Irish Sunday newspaper to view some of the extraordinary sites there that have been built by Cumberland Properties I decided to broaden my horizons; and how glad I am that I did.

Anyone who reads my regular column elsewhere in this magazine knows that I tend to view most things with cynicism; but in this case I found that I was entranced by both the country and the people that I met.

I was based in the Bodrum Peninsula where the company has three developments at the moment—Seaview Regency, Woodland Regency and Valley Gardens, each of which is top- notch—both startlingly beautiful and reasonably priced.

To look at the landscape here is to look through a prism where the astonishing history of the area almost co-exists—like the echo of an echo--- alongside the present. In Bodrum in particular, the fascinating 5,000-year history of the place both ignites and humbles the imagination with its vast sense of antiquity.

To dwell on the fact that Herodotus--- the “father of history”--- was born here almost 500 years before the man who would come to be known as the Christ shook the dust of Nazareth from his sandaled feet----that alone is enough to fire the brain; and emphasising the vast panoply of peoples and religions who have moved through this wonderful area is the castle of St. Peter, dating back to the Knights of St. John.

That’s one of the things that amazed me and that I didn’t expect of Turkey. Religion was denied to nobody, the pursuit of one’s own religion or lack thereof being taken for granted. In fact a lot of countries would do well to follow suit. Then there’s the imposingly- placed Amphitheatre, built in 330- 30 B.C.E and able to seat 13,000 people quite comfortably.

In these straitened times it’s refreshing to be able to talk of a vibrant and exciting country that offers good investment opportunities and is sophisticated in a manner that draws such a huge amount of tourists and buyers while retaining it’s own character. There is extra excitement in the air for the Turks themselves at the moment as they wait to join the European Union.

Needles to say, there is a thriving Irish community of ex- pats, many of whom have lived here for years and who integrate seamlessly with a people and culture that they admire. Indeed, the mutual respect seems to go in both directions.

One of the Irish that I talked to and who, if I hadn’t already been convinced, would have helped to make up my mind on the region, was the imposing six foot and five inches Larry Joseph Lowth. At 77, he has had a chequered career, not least of all as a financial director and chartered accountant. He has also been with IBM and Aer Lingus over the years, though has been happily settled in Turkey for some fifteen years now. Indeed, in the time since I have gotten home I have met three people who have bought there, as they believe it is surviving the global “credit crunch”.

Whoever I spoke to told me the same thing when questioned on the development of the Peninsula: “The ex- pat community are happy at the expansions, as it means better facilities, restaurants and so on. There are a dozen English- language cinemas in the area, as well as theatre, good restaurants and festivals.

“One of the things that’s great about Bodrum is that it used to be a little colony for artists and a lot of them stayed; but as it has become more popular with holiday- makers now, along with Istanbul it is one of the most cultured and varied parts of Turkey.

“The majority of us are living in retirement, although many young couples are here to open their own businesses. It really is the best of both worlds, where it’s possible to live a simple life, with fishing being a popular hobby (at one time it was a small fishing village), yet within a few miles you can come across an exciting night- life. And of course there are the beautiful clear- water beaches on the coastline of the Aegean Sea.”

Just a few remarks on what I was there to look at: the founder of Cumberland is Turkish National Eric Kaya, a very affable man who is good company and whose enthusiasm for his stylish and beautiful homes is extremely contagious. There are too many in the company to single out but I took an instant liking—unusual for me--- to his sales director Koksal Demirdag, whose love for the history of his country was absolutely enthralling. Indeed, when I returned home I pursued the interest in it that he had given me.

And just to give you an indication of the prices, a detached duplex villa would set you back £175,000; a semi- detached even less. Off the plan starts at £49,900. I know I don’t normally do prices in this column but after listening to the Irish there and seeing the country for myself it’s hard not to get excited.

And in the Peninsula it’s exclusive because it’s only allowable to build on 20% of the land and only up to two stories.

Throw in the olive and citrus groves and one has a perfect destination that will suit either the fun- loving tourist or the introspective wanderer in search of something a little different.

And so to Herodotus and to Artemisia—who had the magnificent Mausoleum at Bodrum built in honour of her husband King Mausolos--- my apologies for ever doubting the wonders of this ancient land. My apologies also to the settlers and the cultures that have passed this way and left such a lasting influence: the Carians and the Lelegions and the Dorians, who were said to have founded Bodrum.

If you’re interested then you can find more information at http:/www.cumberland-properties.com or call 0044 (0) 207 586 7179 in the UK or to Turkey +90 252 363 98 94

And no, you cynics out there, I’m not on commission, although I wish I were. I just liked the place!

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